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Working the Room (Santé)

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It's Friday night, and Chef/Owner Chris Hunter is chatting with guests at In Season in Islip, Long Island. "It's a dance I do throughout the evening," he shares. "I fire the lamb, and while it cooks I change into a clean apron and talk to a few tables." At Farm Bloomington in Indiana, Chef/Owner Daniel Orr says, "There is always time to do little 'drive-bys' at the tables and bars." Orr dodges out of the kitchen each night to talk to his patrons about the local farms that supply his restaurant. At Sirocco, in the Renaissance Esmeralda in Indian Wells, California, Chef Livio Massagnani tries to meet the guests as they arrive, "so I can tell them about the evening's special ingredient and discuss how they'd like me to prepare it for them."

These masters of face time know that tableside conversations help them serve customers better. Chatty chefs learn guest preferences and make decisions accordingly. They keep their eyes on the staff and increase accountability.

Better service may be the most-often-cited reason chefs hobnob with the clientele, but it doesn't describe the practice's most prominent benefit -- increasing profits. The value of this no-cost marketing tool is twofold: short discussions about special ingredients increase sales, and the personal touch encourages return business. In some cases, a chef's reputation for mingling even pulls first-timers through the door. "We notice all the time that new customers come to the restaurant and ask the host, 'Is this the place where the chef comes to the table?' or 'I hear the chef will speak to us,'" Hunter confides.

 
The Drive to Socialize

Preferring not to associate their personal attention with dollar signs, chefs typically associate chatting with improving service rather than making money. Chef Bob Waggoner of the Charleston Grill in South Carolina claims that quality is the principal reason to establish a relationship with customers. He does his first nod-and-grin walk-around at about 7 p.m. Diners can be assured that the chef is in the house, and he knows that the staff is on point. "I can guarantee the quality of the food will be better if you have to look each guest in the eye," he assures.

 
Chef Gavin Kaysen tunes in to guests' body language and
conversational tone to time his tableside visits.
 

"I can guarantee the quality of the food will be better if you have to look each guest in the eye."
   -- Bob Waggoner

 

Orr is in the dining room to hear the comments. He likes praise but finds it's equally valuable to hear negative responses. "Then, I can try to fix [the problem]," he admits. In his opinion, diners who leave a restaurant without expressing a negative experience are more likely to discuss it with others -- possibly with people who might be dissuaded to try or return to the restaurant. "Give them a soapbox to air their complaints in the restaurant, and they are less likely to gossip around the watercooler the next day," Orr asserts. Customers who are satisfied that the chef cares about them are more likely to remember that positive reaction instead of the initial disappointment.

Others hope that a hostlike demeanor will make their guests feel more comfortable.

When Daniel Boulud selects a candidate to be chef within the Dinex Group, his multilocation restaurant management company, he looks for culinary skill and a tableside personality. He knows that effective communication skills charm diners. These qualities convinced Boulud to offer the executive chef position at Manhattan's Cafe Boulud to Gavin Kaysen, a 2007 Bocuse d'Or contender and current nominee for the James Beard Rising Star Chef award. Kaysen's youth and approachability make his mingling all the more appealing, especially when it comes to a younger set of guests who are often newer to the fine-dining experience.

 
Sparking Conversation

For some, starting a good conversation requires practice. In 1994, when Alison Barshak was the debut chef at acclaimed Striped Bass in Philadelphia, the largely self-taught cook felt completely comfortable in the kitchen. Nevertheless, it took some time before she was at ease speaking with strangers in the dining room. Now as chef/owner of the cozy, 65-seat Alison at Blue Bell in Blue Bell, Pennsylvania, Barshak considers the customers like guests in her own home and has developed personal relationships with many of them.

When Orr cooked at Manhattan's Guastavino's, a party for 1,000 people wasn't uncommon. He gained his mingling confidence by writing a miniature script to describe each menu item. After memorizing them like an actor's lines, he recited his descriptions to his staff for practice. That repetition improved his delivery with guests and created a well-crafted sales tool. According to Orr, inspiring guests to try something new increases their check totals and brings them back for more.

Some chefs just need a good hook to get guests talking. Hunter engages customers by showing off his ingredients: "I usually carry some beautiful examples of fresh produce -- recently it was a bunch of icicle radishes -- from table to table and spark conversation." During the growing season, he invites interested patrons out to his kitchen garden. Customers return to taste how he prepares the vegetables that were growing during their last visit. Orr uses a similar technique. "I go to the table with waiters and tell guests about produce and products from certain farms. When I tell the customers, it becomes a better sales tool," he explains.

 
Talking
   the talk
  • Prepare and practice short
    descriptions of key menu items that you can use to begin conversations with diners.
  • Engage customers by taking
    one of the evening's most appealing ingredients from table to table.
  • Invite guests to attend special events personally.
  • Show off your restaurant's
    efficiency by offering private tours through your kitchen or wine cellar.
  • Consider using a computer program to remember frequent customers' birthdays, anniversaries, and favorite menu items.
 

Chef Alison Barshak, who overcame years of shyness to greet her customers with confidence, makes a point to speak with every guest.

 
All or Nothing

Despite the obvious benefits, many chefs advise caution when making conversation in the dining room. Distributing attention evenly and knowing when it is appropriate to interrupt can be tricky. Barshak makes it a rule to speak to all. "Recently, when I couldn't circulate and chat with customers as I usually do during the dinner service, I made sure to greet guests as they arrived." She notes that she very rarely sits with or dines with guests in her own restaurant, because she doesn't want her other guests to feel slighted. Orr agrees: "Having done a lot of ‘face work' in New York and the Caribbean, it has become part of me, so people kind of expect it. Being back home

in Indiana, I already know a lot of my guests, so they would probably never forgive me if I didn't go talk to them."

Kaysen's style at Cafe Boulud is fundamentally more cautious. He reads the guests' tone of voice and body language within the first few seconds of his approach. By determining whether or not he will be welcome, he avoids interrupting romantic interludes and tense moments in business meetings. Sometimes it's just a question of timing. "While guests usually really like a personal visit from the chef," he adds, "we also know it's not the primary reason they came to the restaurant."

 
Up Close and Personal

Getting personal with guests is a great way to latch on to return business. Waggoner frequently invites guests to attend special events himself. He asks clients, "We're going to do a wild-game dinner. Do you want in on it?" The events frequently sell out without any formal advertising.

Orr finds that letting guests into the inner sanctum makes them feel special. During restaurant tours, he shows customers all of the nooks and crannies. By including the restaurant's basement bar, called the Root Cellar, on the tour he turns guests on to the opportunity to host private parties in the space. "You might not even know it is there, so it is nice to take guests down for a visit," he adds.

Barshak knows many guests' birthdays, how often they come for dinner, and their favorite menu choices. Waggoner uses his computer list to remember special-occasion information. When guests make a reservation, they're asked if they're celebrating. The program even records guests' orders so the same dish can be recommended on the next visit. Waggoner also encourages guests to celebrate events at the restaurant by making a big deal of each occasion. He and the restaurant manager personally sign birthday and anniversary notes and deliver them with a chocolate plaque and petits fours. The technique is paying off. Waggoner has greeted the same well-dressed couple every Friday night for the past decade.

 

Irvina Lew is the author of Romantic Weekends in and around New York. Her food and wine articles have appeared in many publications, including Chocolatier, Culinary Trends, Pastry Art & Design, Pennsylvania Wine & Spirits, and Wine Enthusiast.

 
Sante This article first appeared in the June 2008 issue of Santé.

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