It's
Friday night, and Chef/Owner Chris Hunter is chatting with guests at In
Season in Islip, Long Island. "It's a dance I do throughout the
evening," he shares. "I fire the lamb, and while it cooks I change into
a clean apron and talk to a few tables." At Farm Bloomington in
Indiana, Chef/Owner Daniel Orr says, "There is always time to do little
'drive-bys' at the tables and bars." Orr dodges out of the kitchen each
night to talk to his patrons about the local farms that supply his
restaurant. At Sirocco, in the Renaissance Esmeralda in Indian Wells,
California, Chef Livio Massagnani tries to meet the guests as they
arrive, "so I can tell them about the evening's special ingredient and
discuss how they'd like me to prepare it for them." These
masters of face time know that tableside conversations help them serve
customers better. Chatty chefs learn guest preferences and make
decisions accordingly. They keep their eyes on the staff and increase
accountability. Better
service may be the most-often-cited reason chefs hobnob with the
clientele, but it doesn't describe the practice's most prominent
benefit -- increasing profits. The value of this no-cost marketing tool
is twofold: short discussions about special ingredients increase sales,
and the personal touch encourages return business. In some cases, a
chef's reputation for mingling even pulls first-timers through the
door. "We notice all the time that new customers come to the restaurant
and ask the host, 'Is this the place where the chef comes to the
table?' or 'I hear the chef will speak to us,'" Hunter confides. |
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| The Drive to Socialize |
Preferring
not to associate their personal attention with dollar signs, chefs
typically associate chatting with improving service rather than making
money. Chef Bob Waggoner of the Charleston Grill in South Carolina
claims that quality is the principal reason to establish a relationship
with customers. He does his first nod-and-grin walk-around at about 7
p.m. Diners can be assured that the chef is in the house, and he knows
that the staff is on point. "I can guarantee the quality of the food
will be better if you have to look each guest in the eye," he assures. |
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Chef Gavin Kaysen tunes in to guests' body language and conversational tone to time his tableside visits. |  |
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"I can guarantee the quality of the food will be better if you have to look each guest in the eye." -- Bob Waggoner |
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 | Orr
is in the dining room to hear the comments. He likes praise but finds
it's equally valuable to hear negative responses. "Then, I can try to
fix [the problem]," he admits. In his opinion, diners who leave a
restaurant without expressing a negative experience are more likely to
discuss it with others -- possibly with people who might be dissuaded
to try or return to the restaurant. "Give them a soapbox to air their
complaints in the restaurant, and they are less likely to gossip around
the watercooler the next day," Orr asserts. Customers who are satisfied
that the chef cares about them are more likely to remember that
positive reaction instead of the initial disappointment. Others hope that a hostlike demeanor will make their guests feel more comfortable. |
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When
Daniel Boulud selects a candidate to be chef within the Dinex Group,
his multilocation restaurant management company, he looks for culinary
skill and a tableside personality. He knows that effective
communication skills charm diners. These qualities convinced Boulud to
offer the executive chef position at Manhattan's Cafe Boulud to Gavin
Kaysen, a 2007 Bocuse d'Or contender and current nominee for the James
Beard Rising Star Chef award. Kaysen's youth and approachability make
his mingling all the more appealing, especially when it comes to a
younger set of guests who are often newer to the fine-dining experience. |
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| Sparking Conversation |
For
some, starting a good conversation requires practice. In 1994, when
Alison Barshak was the debut chef at acclaimed Striped Bass in
Philadelphia, the largely self-taught cook felt completely comfortable
in the kitchen. Nevertheless, it took some time before she was at ease
speaking with strangers in the dining room. Now as chef/owner of the
cozy, 65-seat Alison at Blue Bell in Blue Bell, Pennsylvania, Barshak
considers the customers like guests in her own home and has developed
personal relationships with many of them. When
Orr cooked at Manhattan's Guastavino's, a party for 1,000 people wasn't
uncommon. He gained his mingling confidence by writing a miniature
script to describe each menu item. After memorizing them like an
actor's lines, he recited his descriptions to his staff for practice.
That repetition improved his delivery with guests and created a
well-crafted sales tool. According to Orr, inspiring guests to try
something new increases their check totals and brings them back for
more. Some
chefs just need a good hook to get guests talking. Hunter engages
customers by showing off his ingredients: "I usually carry some
beautiful examples of fresh produce -- recently it was a bunch of
icicle radishes -- from table to table and spark conversation." During
the growing season, he invites interested patrons out to his kitchen
garden. Customers return to taste how he prepares the vegetables that
were growing during their last visit. Orr uses a similar technique. "I
go to the table with waiters and tell guests about produce and products
from certain farms. When I tell the customers, it becomes a better
sales tool," he explains. |
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 | Talking the talk | - Prepare and practice short
descriptions of key menu items that you can use to begin conversations with diners.
| - Engage customers by taking
one of the evening's most appealing ingredients from table to table.
| - Invite guests to attend special events personally.
| - Show off your restaurant's
efficiency by offering private tours through your kitchen or wine cellar.
| - Consider using a computer program to remember frequent customers' birthdays, anniversaries, and favorite menu items.
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| | |  | Chef
Alison Barshak, who overcame years of shyness to greet her customers
with confidence, makes a point to speak with every guest. | | | | All or Nothing | Despite
the obvious benefits, many chefs advise caution when making
conversation in the dining room. Distributing attention evenly and
knowing when it is appropriate to interrupt
can be tricky. Barshak makes it a rule to speak to all. "Recently, when
I couldn't circulate and chat with customers as I usually do during the
dinner service, I made sure to greet guests as they arrived." She
notes that she very rarely sits with or dines with guests in her own
restaurant, because she doesn't want her other guests to feel slighted.
Orr agrees: "Having done a lot of ‘face work' in New York and the Caribbean, it has become part of me, so people kind of expect it. Being back home |
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in Indiana, I already know a lot of my guests, so they would probably never forgive me if I didn't go talk to them." Kaysen's
style at Cafe Boulud is fundamentally more cautious. He reads the
guests' tone of voice and body language within the first few seconds of
his approach. By determining whether or not he will be welcome, he
avoids interrupting romantic interludes and tense moments in business
meetings. Sometimes it's just a question of timing. "While guests
usually really like a personal visit from the chef," he adds, "we also
know it's not the primary reason they came to the restaurant." |
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| Up Close and Personal |
Getting
personal with guests is a great way to latch on to return business.
Waggoner frequently invites guests to attend special events himself. He
asks clients, "We're going to do a wild-game dinner. Do you want in on
it?" The events frequently sell out without any formal advertising. Orr
finds that letting guests into the inner sanctum makes them feel
special. During restaurant tours, he shows customers all of the nooks
and crannies. By including the restaurant's basement bar, called the
Root Cellar, on the tour he turns guests on to the opportunity to host
private parties in the space. "You might not even know it is there, so
it is nice to take guests down for a visit," he adds. Barshak
knows many guests' birthdays, how often they come for dinner, and their
favorite menu choices. Waggoner uses his computer list to remember
special-occasion information. When guests make a reservation, they're
asked if they're celebrating. The program even records guests' orders
so the same dish can be recommended on the next visit. Waggoner also
encourages guests to celebrate events at the restaurant by making a big
deal of each occasion. He and the restaurant manager personally sign
birthday and anniversary notes and deliver them with a chocolate plaque
and petits fours. The technique is paying off. Waggoner has greeted the
same well-dressed couple every Friday night for the past decade. |
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Irvina
Lew is the author of Romantic Weekends in and around New York. Her food
and wine articles have appeared in many publications, including
Chocolatier, Culinary Trends, Pastry Art & Design, Pennsylvania
Wine & Spirits, and Wine Enthusiast. |
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This article first appeared in the June 2008 issue of Santé. |